Winter woollens block quilt
Cosy up with this warm winter woollen runner quilt. Made from easy to put together blocks, you’ll stitch it up in no time.
To add an extra layer of detail, download our free quilt embroidery pattern and use it to fill your blocks. Read on for your free pattern and quilt instructions.
Embroidery data
Download quilting pattern hereFinished size: 72 x 72mm
Stitches: 1516
Colours: 1
Please note:
This design is only for machines that can take a 100 x 100mm or larger hoop.The design is in PEN format and can only be read by Brother embroidery machines. This design is not editable.
Winter woollens materials
- Assorted colours of felted wool fabrics – 60 blocks of 3 ½” square (approx. 8.8cm) and 12 blocks of 6 ½” square (16.5cm)*
- Lightweight wool fabric for backing and self-binding: 58 x 22” (147 x 56cm)*
- Quilting or embroidery thread
- Sewing and embroidery machine
- Sewing foot and needle
- Embroidery foot and needle
- Scissors or rotary cutter
- Tailor’s chalk or erasable pen
- Double sided quilter’s tape
- Pins
*Make sure the fabric you use is not stretchy.
Finished size: 54 x 18 inches (45.5 x 137cm)
Tip: The weight of the wool with the backing is sufficient to keep the piece flat and pucker free, so you don’t need to use a stabiliser for this project.
Winter woollens how to
All seam allowances are ¼” (7mm) and seams are all pressed open. Use lots of steam.
Step 1
Lay the blocks out in a pleasing pattern – use the diagram below for guidance.
Step 2
Sew four smaller blocks together to form a large block. Press all seams over with lots of steam. Make four of them.Step 3
Sew all the large blocks together. Sew a strip of eight large blocks in a line. Repeat. Then sew the two lines together. Press all seams open with lots of steam.Step 4
Sew six small blocks together into a strip. Repeat so you have two strips of six blocks. Press seams open with lots of steam.Step 5
Sew 16 small blocks into a strip. Repeat so you have two strips of 16 blocks. Press seams open with lots of steam.Step 6
Sew the long strips to the two longer sides.Step 7
Sew the short strips to the two shorter ends. Press all seams open and leave to cool.Step 8
Press backing and lay with wrong side facing up. Centre the pieced quilt on it, right side up. Pin or baste, and stitch in the ditch along centre and along sides. Sew between all large blocks, or anywhere you see the seams pushing up.Step 9
Download the embroidery pattern (above). Set your machine up to embroider.Step 10
Hoop your quilt. Start in the centre, working outwards. We placed one design on each small block, and on the large blocks we placed four designs facing to the centre.
Remember, even the best quilters do not get squares perfectly sized, so use your editing tools (sizing and rotating) to get each design unit nicely positioned on the block.
Tip: use your My Design Snap (Stellaire) or camera and projector (Luminaire) to position the quilt design onto the blocks.
Step 10
To help with step 10 – 13, watch our video (below) about self-binding on wool fabrics.When your quilting is done, press again and trim around the backing. Trim it one inch larger on all sides from the end of the pieced wool piece.
Step 11
Draw a line on the backing fabric, all around the quilt on the 5/8 mark. This is where your first fold will be.Tip: we’ve used the self-binding technique to finish this quilt. This means that you trim the backing fabric evenly around the edge of the quilt and roll it over to the front of the quilt to cover the edge and form a binding. It’s a quicker way of finishing your quilt, as you don’t have to make separate binding strips. However, it does mean your binding will be the same as your backing fabric.
Step 12
Stick double-sided quilter’s tape just inside the drawn line, between the cut edge of the quilt and the drawn fold line. Remove the paper strip and fold the fabric over. The cut edge of the backing fabric will now lie just next to the edge of the patchwork. Press to form a neat fold all along the edge of the quilt.Tip: the backing is not stuck to the quilt here, but folded on top of itself.
Step 13
Fold the binding over to cover the raw edge of the quilt. Pin or clip with binding clips and top stitch in place.The corners can be mitred or folded over each other. For this project we’d suggested folded corners. Wool fabric does not crease as crisply as cotton as it’s a little bulky, so it can be hard to get a neat finish if you mitre them.
Tip: to get the folds along the edges crisp, pressing is normally enough on cotton fabrics. However, with wool, you may find it hard to get the fold straight and crisp. To help with this, you can use double sided quilters tape. This is a water-soluble, double-sided tape, normally a quarter inch wide. If you want to find out more about mitred corners, read our ‘how to’ here.
