Know your stabilisers

When you’re new to machine embroidery, it can be super exciting and scary at the same time. You just want to start sewing out all those adorable pictures, but all the things you need to know can be a bit daunting! 

Knowing your stabilisers, what they’re used for and when, is essential for gaining the best results from your machine embroidery. Here’s a breakdown of what stabilisers are used for, when, where and how.

What is a stabiliser?

Think of a stabiliser as a temporary part of your project – it serves the same purpose as pins would when you are making a garment.  

In this case, the stabiliser is keeping your fabric stable in the embroidery hoop while you are embroidering. However, it’s not something you want on your finished project. It’s something that needs to be removed once its work is done, so you’re left with only the embroidery. This is especially true for clothing.  

For some projects you may need more than one kind of stabiliser, to do the different jobs you need. For example, if you embroider on a towel, you may need a stabiliser at the back to stop the towel from stretching, and you will also need a film on the top to keep your stitches from disappearing into the pile.

What is out there?

Stabilisers are classified according to how they will be removed:  

Tearaway stabiliser – is a non-woven fabric that comes in different weights, mostly in black or white, but is also available as a transparent ‘plastic’ type called Trick film (see below for a full description of Trick Film). Some versions are fusible (temporary fuse) and there is also a version with a sticky back – it works just like a sticker. This stabiliser type is suitable for use with fabrics that are stable and where the tearaway will not change the drape of the fabric after embroidery.  

As the name indicates, at the end of embroidering this stabiliser will be torn away from the fabric and will perforate at the edge of the embroidery. The stabiliser trapped in the embroidered area will stay there permanently. When torn out, it leaves a hard edge, which can be scratchy if used in clothing. Tearaway is best for craft projects in general.

Cutaway stabiliser – this is a non-woven embroidery stabiliser, so will not fray but will also not tear away (like tearaway!). It will not stretch in any direction. After you have finished your project you will need to trim it away close to the embroidery. It will be visible from the back. It is not suitable to use with sheer or translucent fabrics. 

Cutaway stabiliser comes in a variety of weights and should be matched to the weight of the fabric you embroider onto. Fusible versions are available which are more suitable for machine embroidery projects where the stabiliser does not need to be trimmed away.

Trick film or heat dissolve film – Trick film is a translucent plastic stabiliser. It is perforated and has little bumps on the one side that will help to keep fabric stable. It can be used as a tearaway on delicate fabrics or as a film on top of fabrics with a pile (best with simple designs). It can be torn away or melted away with heat on fabrics that are heat tolerant. It can also be used as a tearaway stabiliser on delicate or drapey fabrics. 

Trick film is useful if you are embroidering items where the embroidery will be visible on both sides, like towels. Stabilise with Trick film on both sides and use the same thread in the needle and the bobbin. 

Fusible tearaway

Brother BM3 Comes in a pack of three conveniently sized sheets (28 x 100cm). It heat fuses to the back of your project, and can be removed or left in, depending on the end use.

Adhesive sprays and textile stiffeners

Adhesive sprays are a handy way to create a temporary bond between your project and the stabiliser. Madeira’s MSA is a good one. You can also use Quilt Basting sprays like 101 or 202. Trial them until you find your favourite!

Terial Magic is a textile stiffener which needs a little preparation. It’s used to supply the support you need for embroidery, especially on delicate fabrics. Bear in mind that the item you’re using it on needs to be washable and will need to be laundered before you use it.

Please be careful though when using adhesives. Spray far away from your embroidery machine so the particles do not harm your machine. 
 

How to choose? Consider the following:

Handy stabiliser reference table 

Here is a short list to help you choose the correct type of stabiliser for the back of your machine embroidery. If the surface of your fabric is piled or textured, add water-soluble film or trick film on the top in addition to the base stabiliser.

Download the reference guide

Tips for using stabilisers

• If you can adhere the stabiliser to the object you’re embroidering, do it. Many stabilisers are available as a fusible option or even as a sticky back (just like a sticker!). Another option is to use an adhesive spray (Madeira makes an excellent one that has only the faintest lemon fragrance and is a temporary bond).   
• Use the smallest hoop you can.
• Do not over stretch your fabric when hooping, but do tighten the screw well (invest in a Brother Multi-Function screwdriver!).
• Press your fabric before starting. It will also help to use a pressing agent, like Best Press or Soak. For very soft fabrics, you can use a fabric stiffener, like Terial Magic.